Postcards from Europe #5
A series of my first time travelling through Europe before settling into my writing residency at the Chateau d'Orquevaux. This postcard is about Belgrade, Serbia
The Postcards from Europe series chronicles my first trip to Europe visiting Vienna, Bratislava, Budapest, Novi Sad (my father-in-law home town), Belgrade, Paris, Dijon and Joinville. After this I commence a three-week writing residency at Chateau d’Orquevaux.
Catch up on previous postcards
Hello my dear Musers
I’m writing to you on the way from the Belgrade airport on our way to Paris. This is our first flight on our trip other than our flight from Melbourne so we’re here early. One good thing about being early is time to do a bit of travel admin.
Belgrade, Serbia
Our time in Belgrade was short, very short, but this was planned as we needed to fly from here to get to Paris. Now that we have been in Serbia, I know that we could have gone from Novi Sad directly to the airport as it’s about halfway between the two cities. I wouldn’t have changed our itinerary, though, as it’s been great to see Belgrade and know that I definitely come back.
While travelling in foreign places, it’s hard to stop myself from the comparison thing: Oh, this area reminds me of Sydney; Ah, this is a little like the outskirts of Vietnam; etc. You get the picture I’m sure. And I’m sure I’m not the only who does it.
Having said that, there were pockets of Belgrade around where we were staying that really reminded me of inner Sydney. Belgrade is a hilly city and at first glance, it’s big buildings – a mix of grand old dames in great condition and ones in various states of ruin, and buildings that are from the communism era: pure function with no bells and whistles. Yesterday as we wend our way through the streets (up and down stairs, through underpasses, around the sides of buildings) I remarked that I kind of respect the communist style architecture. It does exactly what it’s meant to do with minimal cost. Think big concrete blocks. But then it surprises you here and there. Concrete with a twist of metal and some geometric shape for no reason other than being a thing on top of a thing.
During our short time in Belgrade (and its 36 degree heat), I walked over 30,000 steps (and most of those have been climbing up to our apartment on the third floor).
Our entry to the main city of Serbia was complicated. We drove in as we were returning our hire car downtown. Downtown turned out to be a major shopping centre and there were no further instructions other than the shop number. I tried calling the number and was hung up on each time. So, we (M) parked and we found our way in and found the shop. The guy looked quite pissed off with us that we hadn’t parked it in the Eurocar area, put his hand out for the keys and began walking off and locking the door. We ran after him as our backpacks were still in the car. He took the photos and waved us on our way. Okay. Cool. Next trick was getting to our apartment that was about thirty minutes walk away, which would have been okay expect it was 36 degrees. The first taxi told us it would be 3000 RS (dinar). M asked another one and it was half that.
Our AirBnB host (the best yet with a top notch apartment) gave us a bunch of suggestions of coffee shops and restaurants. We were staying in the bohemian area of Belgrade and near the ‘old’ city area with stone roads. We went to one of the recommended places Tri šešira for dinner that first night and were serenaded at a traditional restaurant.
It was a lot.
Also, remember, smoking inside restaurants.
A. Lot.
M and J ordered a grilled meat platter and the summer salad platter. There was so much meat! I was done after my first lamb rib (I think that is what it was). M and J did their best but even still we had to ask for a doggy bag.
Our full day in Belgrade was spent walking around, meeting a family connection, more walking, eating lunch under the cooling fans, a siesta (damn it was hot yesterday), and venturing out in the cool of the evening.
Everyone eats late here. I say eats loosely as most people we have seen in Serbia out in the evenings are drinking and eating dessert. Dessert is a big thing here! Most places in the evenings offer drinks and desserts and you have to ask if there is dinner.
I noodled around the internet and found a place that looked great and cool (temperature and vibe) that wasn’t far from where we were. An oversized birdcage, an old horse and cart coach, an elephant hanging from a tree and, more importantly, a wonderful canopy that provided the much needed cool air.
It was the kind of day that called for a mojito. There was a jug of it on the menu so I did the only reasonable thing, ordered it. It came with six straws…
On our way back to the apartment, we passed a few people blowing whistles and thought nothing of it, but when we reached the bottom of the street, there was a crowd with buses blocking off the street and planks of timber in the tram lines. We got talking with a man standing there and he explained that they were there protesting against a government who have done nothing for the people who died when the Novi Sad train station collapsed. He mentioned the protest that had happened on Saturday (that I mentioned in my last postcard) and how there was too much violence from the police against the students. ‘Because they are students, we are all very upset at how they are being treated. We hold these street blockades every night now until they fix things.’
When asked how they know where the blockade would be, he shrugged. ‘We just find out.’ He said they stay until the police come, which the night before was 4 am.
Power to the people!
Hvala, Serbia. It has been a wonderful time discovering the land of my husband’s and sons’ heritage. I am sure we will be back. Until then, it is on to Paris!
My writing
Nothing! Other than this and my journal, I have written nothing. But I’m okay with that. It’s only been a couple of days. Many things are swirling around in my mind, though, and this is a good thing. Thinking and letting things stew is all a part of the writing process.
And, writers, if no one else has told you yet and you’re tying yourself in knots trying to write every day: you don’t have to! The most important thing is for you to find your writing rhythm: write in bursts, write every day at the same time, write one, two, three or whatever days a week. It’s all good as long as you can stay connected to your writing and you keep nudging it forward (which also can look like going backwards when you delete words, but that is nudging it forwards if it is the right ‘direction’ you need to take with it).
Need help with your writing?
In case you missed it, I help writers in various ways: one-on-one and group coaching; editing (manuscript assessments, copyediting and proofreading; an online supportive writing group that provides locked-in writing time, collegiality and accountability; and writing retreats. When I return, I’ve got a bunch of events kicking off that might be helpful for you.
Group coaching – Effective goal setting.
We’ll look at the things that get in the way and I’ll provide tools and strategies to help set effective goals. It’s a one-hour online interactive session and if you sign up for it, you get lifetime access to the recording. I’ve bundled this with the other four group coaching sessions this year for the price of four
When: 4 Aug at 12.30 pm Melb time
Writing Momentum Chapter 3: connections and distances
This is an eight-week online writing group where you get a poetry-based prompt, 40 minutes of quiet writing time, accountability and a writing community. This Writing Momentum Chapter is looking at the connections and distances within the writing. You get a life-time access to the recordings.
When: 6 August at 7.00 am Melb time
Retreat with Meg writing retreat 21-23 August
There’s only two spots left at this, so if you’re wanting some quiet nurtured time to write in a cottage of your own, this is for you. The retreat is fully catered and you get a one-hour coaching or mentoring session, daily one-hour workshop to help you deepen your relationship with your writing, story and characters, evening communal times , and a bunch of other wonderful things). My retreats are for writers of any genre/reading age and at all stages. If you’re keen, reach out to me on WhatsApp, email or book through the retreat page.
If this date doesn’t work for you, there are two more retreats this year and that will be it for this year. The other dates are 20-24 October and 20-23 November.
Next?
As I mentioned, we’re on our way to Paris which is the last country I will be in for my trip and begins my ‘settling’ time as I prepare for my three weeks of writing. I’ve got three days there and am really looking forward to explore Montmartre, drinking coffee and eating croissants while I practise my level 19 Duolingo (just kidding – I am sure I will not understand a thing they say, but I will try!).
I love hearing from you!
Until next time, with a postcard from Paris!
x M
PSST: if you’re new here, welcome! It’s lovely to have you here. If you haven’t checked out my Welcome post, I’d recommend that to find your way around
Added bonus
Since you’ve made it all the way to the end, I’ll show you some more pics (I have to do something with all these photos!)
love your photos, Meg. The cobbled streets, leafy laneways, create a little wonderland back her for us where today, as I drove along the freeway, the slate grey sky and roadway surface all shrouded in never-ending rain merged into one. Enjoy Paris!
C
36 degrees, 30,000 steps, smoking in restaurants, mojitos with straws and protests - it all sounds absolutely fabulous!