Postcards from Europe #7
A series of my first time travelling through Europe before settling into my writing residency at the Chateau d'Orquevaux. This postcard is from Dijon, France
The Postcards from Europe series chronicles my first trip to Europe visiting Vienna, Bratislava, Budapest, Novi Sad (my father-in-law home town), Belgrade, Paris, Dijon and Joinville. After this I commence a three-week writing residency at Chateau d’Orquevaux.
Catch up on previous postcards
Hello my dear Musers
I’m writing to you on the way from the train on the way from Dijon to Joinville. Where the heck is Joinville? That’s the most commonly asked question when I mention I’m going there, followed by why. I’ll get to that in my next postcard. For now, I tell you about my time in Dijon.
Dijon, France
Why Dijon? Why not. That’s the joy about travelling is you can go anywhere you want. When no was first planning this trip, I had planned to spend time by the Mediterranean but as pins were plonked on the map, it looked less and less feasible if we were to go to the places that we really wanted to and get to the coast. There would have been a lot of back and forthing, which isn’t the way I like to travel. I like to have a momentum and direction.
One of the defining dates and places was Paris as M was flying home from there six days before my residency began. So, six days to fill to end me up in Chaumont where I would be picked up by the residency staff. I looked at the calendar and saw Dijon, the home of Dijon mustard and burgundy wine. So, why not. I didn’t want to spend too much time in another bigger city so I decided two nights would be enough and three nights at a quieter village; hence, the current train trip.
I’m pleased to tell you that the problem we found on our route to Dijon (overbooked train) is not the current case. Mind you, we have three trains to get to Joinville. I may be regretting blindly choosing this place.
Back to Dijon. Our apartment was in the old city and just a short walk to some interesting places. It was within a cobbled-stoned courtyard flush with greenery. Inside, it was painted a bold yellow with rich burgundy curtains and chairs matching the 18th century age of the building. I’m coming to love these old apartments with all their quirks.
Dijon is a university town and has ruins dating back to Roman times discovered under an old church. On our way out for a drink along the cobble-stone road (and past a gothic church), we happened upon some of these ruins along with an exhibition of the sculpture Francois Rude’s work inside an old chapel.
I keep pinching myself looking at these ancient things. Like walls built in the third and forth century.
As I mentioned, I was in Dijon for a ‘pause’ on the way to Orquevaux, but also for the mustard and wine. A regular vessel on our table at home is the Maille Dijon mustard and I was pleased to see that there was a mustard tastings at the Maille shop. They had six wine mustards on tap and people bring buckets and jars to refill. I have noticed the national effort France is making towards a better environment. People carry baskets and bags, or wheel shopping trolleys to get their food and I loved to see people refilling their mustard jars. Sadly for me, the shelf life of the wine mustard is only two weeks, so I enjoyed the different flavours while there – particularly, the mustard of the moment with whisky and smoked black pepper.
We were lucky to be in Dijon on Saturday as that is market day in Les Halles. A huge building with stalls of fresh fruit and vegetables, breads and pastries, meat and seafood, honeys and grains, cured meats. I worked out pretty quickly that there is a different way to purchase here compared to the Queen Vic market at home. People lined up quietly and the sellers served people one at a time. No shouting, no pushing. So orderly! J and I left with baguettes, meat, cheeses, cherries and strawberries. Delightful!
And this very short video that gives you an idea of the size. Also, see the people lining up at the left? They’re lining up for onion and garlic. All patiently waiting their turn.
The wine tasting was in a quieter street. We enjoyed four wines from the region with a small board of cheese, prosciutto, grapes, bread, gingerbread and a paste of basil and artichoke. There is no better way to spend a lazy Saturday afternoon. I got chatting (of course) to a woman on the next table to us who was alone. She was from Florida (originally Minnesota). We talked about the joys of travelling and finding places to go that are a little out of the way. She was heading down to Italy to meet her grandson after here and was glad to be away from her own country with all that’s going on.
Late afternoon, we explored the Museum of Fine Arts which is housed in the Duke’s Palace. It’s a completely free gallery that has art spanning from pre 1400 to current works. There are 50 rooms of art and it was great to go through the rooms that were art in themselves.
Over dinner in the Liberty Square, we watched children running through the fountains, family groups gathering. As the sun set, the city’s lights highlighted more beauty.
The sun sets late, and I’m still not accustomed to it. At ten pm, the sun has gone down, but it is still light and is light again at five am. This morning, I woke with the light and before heading to the train station, I grabbed us some pastries from the bakery two doors up from our apartment. It came highly recommended by the host and it would be rude not to!
Now, onto Joinville to see what that town offers. But before then we’re having a coffee at Ôp’tit Goret in Culmont-Chalindrey while we wait for our second (out of three) train trip for the day.
My writing
Still journalling and enjoying the slightly slower pace as I head into the residency. I’m pinching myself that it’s nearly time!
Some writer mates have passed on some beautiful wisdom as I head into my three weeks of writing. I’m keen to play with different ways of creating while I’m there including drawing, poetry and more. As it gets closer, I’m more resolved to use this time for creating new rather than editing old. There is something wonderful about having a solid amount of time to create while being around other creatives.
And you?
I haven’t forgotten about the writers I work with and have a bunch of events when I return. You’re welcome to join us if you like:
Effective goal setting masterclass – Mon 4 Aug at 12.30 pm Melb time. It will be interactive and fun
8-week online writing group starting Wed 6 Aug at 7.00 am Melb time out more. Some solid writing time and accountability
Next?
Joinville! The mystery location. I literally know nothing about it other than we’re staying in a 1563 house.
I love hearing from you!
Until next time, with a postcard from Paris!
x M
PSST: if you’re new here, welcome! It’s lovely to have you here. If you haven’t checked out my Welcome post, I’d recommend that to find your way around
Added bonus
Since you’ve made it all the way to the end, I’ll show you some more pics (I have to do something with all these photos!)
oh, those brilliant yellow rooms, rich red curtains, cobblestone streets, pastries, Dijon's museum, ..................., and to see you basking in the beauty of it all ........
This is all sounding very civilised.